Micheala Diane Designs

All Things Home Decor & Design

DIY Shiplap Electric Fireplace & Mantel

· In: DIY

Today I am sharing a step by step tutorial on how to building your own shiplap electric fireplace.

Shiplap Electric Fireplace

I am so excited about today’s post. A lot of love and labor went into this fireplace and we are so happy with how it turned out.

TV walls can be so hard to decorate especially when you have a larger wall behind it. This shiplap fireplace was the perfect solution. It made our space so cozy and filled a wall that would have otherwise been blank. It is now the best part of our living room.

This post is going to be an in-depth guide of exactly how we transformed our boring TV wall into a beautiful statement piece. We are not professional carpenters in any way. This project can be done by anyone with the desire to make a shiplap fireplace on their own. I hope that this guide will help you every step of the way.

Let’s get started!

DIY Shiplap Fireplace

 

Materials List

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Amounts will vary depending on how big you want your fireplace to be. See step one to determine your materials. I have indicated the exact amount we used for a 5′ wide by 8′-6″ fireplace.

We purchased the majority of the items from Home Depot. I highly recommend ordering from this list online and picking it all up in-store. This saves so much time. All you have to do is show up and load it into the car.

Fireplace:

Fireplace Insert-We purchased the 30 inch one.

Mantel:

Tools Required

 

Step One: Design Planning

The most important part of any project is to have a plan.  I was inspired by a couple of different accounts when we decided to jump in on this project. They had done a version of exactly what we wanted to do. We used their projects as inspiration for how we wanted to design our fireplace. You can check them out here Nesting With Grace, The Blooming Nest, and Kismet House.
 
After getting an idea of what I wanted it to look like. I created a 3D model of our living room using a free program called Sketch Up. You do not have to do this step, but it is something I do for my clients all the time. This helped me figure out the exact dimensions we wanted for our fireplace. You can simply tape it out in your space if you need a visual or draw it out on paper.
 
Below is our before, the model that I created and our final measurements for reference. By planning the size and spacing of everything beforehand you will know exactly what you need to order for materials.

Before

Before Picture

Design Plan

Model

Final Measurements

Shiplap Fireplace Dimensions

 

 

Step Two: Shiplap Fireplace Framing

To begin you will want to remove any pictures hanging. As well as any baseboard trim or crown molding that is on the wall you would like to have your shiplap fireplace. This will give you a completely blank wall to start with.

General Wall Marking:

Next, you will mark the center of the wall as well as the final width of the fireplace. Within the final width of the fireplace, locate and mark all studs in the wall using your stud finder. This is very important because the entire frame will be anchored to these studs in the existing wall.

General Markings

 

Anchor Boards:

Take your 1 x 4  x 6  boards and cut to the final width of the fireplace (in our case it was 5 ft ). Next, mark the center of these 1  x 4  boards. Measure the height from the floor to the ceiling and mark 4 equal spaces. This is where your 1  x 4 boards will be screwed in.

Align the center of the board with the centerline of the wall while also placing it at the appropriate height marked (4 equal spaces). Using your bubble level, cordless drill and construction screws, attach your 1 x 4  boards to the wall. Ensure that they are level as well as centered on the wall. You will repeat this three more times to create an anchor for the entire fireplace.

Shiplap Fireplace anchor walls

Sidewalls:

The next step is to build the sides of your fireplace. To do this you will need to know the height from floor to ceiling. If the height is greater than 8’-3”, you do not have to cut your 2 in x 4 in studs.

If the ceilings are shorter than 8’-3”, you will have to cut your studs. Take the height of your ceilings and subtract 3 in. This will give you the height of your vertical boards.

You will need (4) 2 x 4 studs, either full length or cut to length depending on your wall height. You will also need to cut  (4) 2 x 4 studs that are the final depth of the fireplace, in our case, it was 12” ( Top and Bottom Plate).  To ensure your side walls are extra sturdy you will need cut (6) 2 x 4 pieces and equally space them in the middle of your frame.

To construct the walls see the photo below.

Side Wall Frame

 

Shiplap Fireplace Frame

Take your finished walls and stand them upright, one for each side of the fireplace. Line up the outside edge of the mounted 1 x 4 board with the outside edge of your stud. This will ensure your edges meet the overall width of the final fireplace. Screw the walls through the studs into the anchored 1 x 4 boards already on the wall. You now have two side walls that will make up your fireplace!

Front Frame:

The front-facing portion of the framing gets a little more tricky. Here are a few things you will need to know before beginning.

  • The final height of the bottom of the fireplace. 
  • The width and height of the firebox insert.

Based on these measurements you can begin the framing the front of the fireplace. You will build a box on the bottom, similar to how you built the side walls with 3 studs and a bottom and top plate. The final height of your box should go from the floor to the bottom of the fireplace opening. Insert this box and screw it to the side walls already in place.

Next, you will need (4) 2 x 4 studs cut to the height of the fireplace insert. Screw these (4) studs into the top of the box you have just built from the bottom. (2) on the sides and the other (2) the overall width of your fireplace insert centered. Then place (1) 2 x 4 stud cut to the entire length of the opening over the top of these (4) boards and screw into place.

See the picture below. (Please note: our home is 150 years old and a little crooked, so we compensated for the angle to make the fireplace level)

Front Frame

 

To finish the front frame you will need (4) studs. (2) for the sides and (2) 16″ on center. Then you will need to cut one final board for the top. You can build this portion of the frame on the ground. Once secure lift into place and screw into the side walls.

Congrats! You have a rough framed fireplace.

 

Step Three: Shiplap Fireplace Secret Door for Electronics (optional)

If you would like to cleanly hide all your electronics and have some patience, read on. 

We were originally going to cut a hole in the shiplap behind the TV and create a shelf. But the TV mount that we wanted to use did not allow for that. So we decided to make a secret side door that we could easily access and that no one would see. It was tricky but we are so happy with how it came out.

We went through multiple revisions to make this seamless and working correctly.

Secret fireplace door

Interior Shelves:

The shelves will house things like a cable box, router, DVD player or gaming system. Measure approximately where you want your door to go. This should be somewhere close to where the TV will go, while not being too high that it is out of reach. 

Within the fireplace, framing add shelves by adding small lengths of 2 x 4 from the anchor wall to the outside stud and screw in place. Small pieces of plywood can be used to cover the shelves and create a solid surface.

Secret door shelves

The Base Door:
To make the door you will need to know the width of the sidewall shiplap, minus the lattice trim and minus the corner trim widths. This length will be used for the overall width of the door. So that when the door closes, the gap for the door will be along the trim edges. The door is comprised of a backboard and 4 precisely cut pieces of shiplap nailed to the base door. 
 
For hardware, we used these hinges. They are designed to fold outward instead of to the side like a traditional door. It was designed this way to take advantage of the overlap in the shiplap.
 
You will need to drill holes in the side of the door to attach the hinges. When installing the hinges, ensure they are close to the bottom. See below for precise measurements that worked for us.
 
The other side of the hinges attaches to the studs of the sidewall. I would attach the hinges and install the base door to the frame first. Ensuring the depth that the door installed will allow the shiplap to sit flush and align with the other shiplap on the fireplace. 
 
Shiplap Fireplace Secret Door
Adding Shiplap to Door:
After the base door is installed, you will want to cut small pieces of shiplap that will go under the corner trim and lattice trim. For us, the corner trim was ¾” wide and the lattice trim was 1-¾” wide.
 
Putting these small pieces of shiplap where the trim will go will give a cleaner look and ensure no gaps. I would also recommend cutting the stud closest to the wall. So the last piece of shiplap can swing into the fireplace frame, see model image below. This can be achieved with a small hand saw or reciprocating saw.  
 
When the base door is installed and hinging properly, then you can cut 4 shiplap boards and attach it to the door baseboard. 
 
Lastly, you can install a magnetic latch to keep the door closed.
Secret door model
 

Tips on the secret door: 

  • Know where the door will go before you start adding shiplap to your fireplace and ensure the frame will work for the swing of the door. 
  • The last piece of shiplap bottom lip should be cut so there is clearance for the bottom of the shiplap to swing into the fireplace. Also, ensure your internal shelves work for this as well.
  • Make the base door smaller than the opening height. This will allow plenty of clearance. The close-fitting part of this door should be the shiplap, not the base door. 
  • Be patient with this as it might take a couple of tries to get it just right. 
  • Also, plan out precisely where the magnetic latch will go. The goal is to close the door flush with the other shiplap and just connect with the magnet to hold it shut.

Step Four: Install Shiplap

We decided to go with this pine nickel gap shiplap board from Home Depot. It was a great price and already had the tongue and groove. Making it easy to install and easily gives you that gap between the boards. We went 8 ft boards because one board was enough to cover the front and wrap around the sides. I also recommend getting a couple of extra boards more than you think you will need.
 
For this portion of the project, you will need your nail gun. You will want to start at the top and work your way down. Start by measuring from the wall to the outside edge of the sidewall. This will be your measurement for your sidewall shiplap. It is best to measure each piece individually. This will compensate for any variation in the length of the board as you move down the fireplace
 
Nail the board to the frame, for the side walls we did two nails and for the front, we did four. Make sure that as you are nailing in your boards that you are driving the nail through lumber.
 
As you work your way down the fireplace, here are some things to keep in mind:
 
  • Each board should be level. Make small adjustments along the way to correct any boards that are not perfectly level. (using the bubble level). 
  •  As you wrap the corners from one edge to another, ensure the shiplap gap lines up from the sidewall to the front wall.
  • When shiplapping the front of the fireplace, be sure to add additional length to overlap the sidewall shiplap pieces. This will ensure a square edge to put the corner trim against.
 

Shiplap On Fireplace

Step Five: Shiplap Fireplace Trim

If you have existing baseboard trim or crown molding, I would do everything you can to match what is already in your house. This will help the fireplace look like it was always there and give a great finished look. I recommend watching this video on how to cut baseboard and crown molding. 
 
After the bottom and/or top molding is installed, you can install your inside corner trim as well as the lattice trim.  For best results cut each piece of trim one at a time. If you try and take one height measurement for all pieces of trim, you are either going to be too short or long on every piece. By cutting each piece of trim one at a time, you will ensure that each piece will fit perfectly in place.
 
When installing the inside corner trim, drive the nail directly into the corner at a 45-degree angle. This will ensure the trim doesn’t pull away from the wall or pull away from the fireplace and leave a gap.
 
When installing the lattice trim, drive into the fireplace one nail at a time starting from the top. Make small adjustments with the trim to ensure the edge lines up with the shiplap corner. Nail the lattice onto the fireplace corners so that the gap between the two pieces of lattice faces the sidewalls and not the front of the fireplace. This will look way better. 
Corner trim and lattice molding

Step Six: Fill & Paint

Fill all Holes:

At this point, you should have a pretty good looking fireplace, except for all those nail holes. You should fill those small nail holes with spackle leaving a bit extra over the nail holes. You can also take window/trim caulk and fill any bigger gaps in the trim.

One tip with spackling is to not try and scrap the spackle flush with the surface. It will shrink a little and leave a small divot. Leave extra so that it can be sanded perfectly flush when the spackle is dry.

Once the spackle is dry, I recommend using a power hand sander to sand all fill flush. You should use a shop vac/ home vac during this step because dust is going to get EVERYWHERE. Be prepared. Drop cloths over furniture can be particularly helpful. 

 

spackle fireplace

Paint:

Once all spackle holes and caulk lines are dry and sanded flush it’s time to paint. Start by wiping down the fireplace with a damp cloth or paper towel to pick up any dust. This should also be done with a vacuum to pick up any lingering dust

Once all the surfaces are cleaned, pick up your favorite can of paint, matching the existing wall if desired. Run over the shiplap gaps with a brush first. Then a roller after. This will ensure the paint gets into the gaps for a uniform color coverage.

We used Sherwin William Alabaster for the shiplap to match our existing walls.

Step Seven: DIY Mantel

The mantle was constructed using three  1 in x 8 in x 6 ft common boards. Cut all three boards to length desired, we used 4 ft-4 in as the final width of our mantel. If you purchase 6 ft boards you should have some leftover.

You will need to cut 2 boards for the end caps. Once all your boards are cut, you can use a Kreg Jig or nail gun to assemble. We choose to use Kreg Jig and Kreg screws because you end up with a flush outer surface and no nail holes. If using a Kreg Jig, drill holes for the inside edges and mate each board with the proper length screws.

Once all your pieces are assembled, you can stain with your favorite stain. We used this Minwax White Wash Pickling paint to remove any yellow from the wood. Then we used Behr semi-transparent waterproof stain and seal tint base number 5077 in Cordovan Brown over that. To finish we used wood veneer sheets to cover the end caps. We used the same staining process we used on the boards, on the veneer sheets.

 

Wood Veneer Sheets

The stain for the mantel was inspired by The Blooming Nest and the idea to use the wood veneer sheet on the end caps came from Remington Avenue.

To mount the mantle, we took 4 small pieces of 2 x 4 and screwed into the fireplace studs at the approximate height we wanted the mantle. Then we screwed the mantle into place from the top into these small pieces of wood.

 

DIY Mantel

 

Step Eight: Install Electric Fireplace Insert

We went with this electric insert from Amazon. When it arrived we were pleasantly surprised with how real it looks. One of my biggest concerns was that it was going to look cheesy with a fake fire. It has a brick background and the logs look very realistic. There are three flame settings and it also has a heater with temperature control.

So far we have found the quality to be great and it also comes with a remote which is always a plus. It is very easy to install. You have already built your fireplace to the perfect opening dimensions so all you have to do is plug it in and slide it into the opening.

One thing we did not realize when we purchased is that there is no way to secure it into the wall. But we found that once it was in the opening it is a tight fit. So, for now, we do not have any concerns with it falling out and that also allows us to easily access behind it if we need to. Shop our electric insert here.

 

Step Nine: TV Mount & Wire Management (optional)

The final step is installing your TV if that is what you will be putting over your mantel. We chose the Mantle Mount MM540 to mount our TV over the mantle. We chose this mount because it allows you to pull the TV down over the mantel. Our TV was too high up and this allows you to watch TV without straining your neck. Follow the provided instructions to mount your TV with the provided hardware.

Mantel Mount

 

Mantel Mount

For the wires, we drilled a hole through the cover of the mantle mount and the shiplap. This allowed us to run all the necessary wires for the TV. These all linked back to our equipment located behind the secret door. We used zip ties to clean up the wires.

 

DIY Shiplap Fireplace

We are so happy with how this project came out and it was worth all the effort. I would say this is hands down my favorite DIY we have ever done. I hope that this guide inspired you to build your own shiplap fireplace. If there is something that we did not cover or if you have any questions please feel free to leave them in the comments. If you do build it let me know. You can send me an email or use the tag #mddinspired on Instagram! 

 

What to Read Next:

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DIY Dining Room Table Makeover

 

Want to save this for later? Post this DIY Shiplap Fireplace to your favorite Pinterest Board!

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Comments

  2. Maia says

    I’m sure that could not have turned out any better!! I love the look and the style so much, and what a great accent for the room as well. Your tutorial is very specific which is necessary for a project like this. Thanks so much for sharing your beautiful new project!!!

    Reply

  3. Jackie says

    This looks so helpful, we are planning on building one just like this and your instructions are going to save us so much learning time! Thank you!
    Reading through this quickly I wanted to know the width of the side wall that you built. I saw all the front measurements but not the side. I know it does depend on the fireplace insert but would like to know your width.
    Thanks!

    Reply

  4. Donna Valentine says

    Technology confuses me so please excuse my ignorance. Where is your cable box and DVR? My system may be old fashioned, but I must point my remote at the cable box and need to insert DVRs. If that is the case, how would I adapt your creation?

    Reply

    • michealadianedesigns says

      My cable box does not require the remote to be pointed at it and the door opens enough to be able to use the DVD player easily. I have seen others place equipment next to the fireplace and hide the cords or I have seen people build a box right behind the tv.

      Reply

      • Daniel Leonardi says

        The materials list for the mantle includes 1 2” x 4” x 8’ board but I don’t see where this is used. Is that a mistake?

        Reply

        • michealadianedesigns says

          This is used as the support for the mantel to attach to the fireplace. You will not need to use the entire board. (see photo for example)

          Reply

    • Austin says

      You can get some heavy duty Velcro and Velcro cable box behind tv making sure the ir sensor on cable box is at very top of tv just out of sight but so remote can reach it.

      Reply

  5. Julie Dablaing says

    I love this!! Thank you for being so specific! Do you have a sub woofer? I have no idea where that should go? Does it fit in the secret door? Besides that all we have is the DVD player which could easily fit in the side door!

    Reply

      • Brook says

        I love it! I got the exact fireplace can you tell me the exact width and height it is because you inserted the fireplace interested because you said it was a tight fit

        Reply

  6. Lexi Feyerherd says

    We just decided to add an electric fireplace and your instructions will be so helpful! Thanks for providing so much detail. I might have missed it, but I was wondering how wide your TV is?
    Thanks again!

    Reply

  7. Leslea says

    I love how this turned out! Thank you for the tutorial! I have one question, when you added your Tv did you add the flat panel and build that yourselves?

    Reply

  8. Chris says

    Just curious, what size wood did you use for the trim at the top of the fireplace. Is that 1 by 6? Also, did you build any support to hold the body of the electric fireplace inside of the unit or did you just rely on that front frame to support it? Thanks!

    Reply

    • michealadianedesigns says

      We used a 1×4 for the top peice. Ours looks a little bigger because our house is slanted so we had to add extra fill. For the fireplace we did add an extra 2×4 at the bottom. You can see a good picture of that under Step Four: Install Shiplap.

      Reply

  9. Tyler says

    Did you vent your fireplace? Or do any heat resistant drywall behind it? I saw this mentioned in some of the comments for the fireplace you listed.

    Reply

    • michealadianedesigns says

      It is an eclectic fireplace so we did not do any venting. How it sits in the cavity it is at least 6 inches from the back wall. You do not have to have the heat going on it for it to light up but I really don’t think it heats up enough to use heat resistant drywall.

      Reply

  10. Dana says

    You’re design is beautiful! I am looking to do something similar in my living room but I am torn between the classic square designed fireplace insert or a more modern rectangular insert. My TV is a 65” and I am worried that it will overwhelm a square fireplace. I’m wondering what your thoughts are since you have an eye for design?

    Reply

    • michealadianedesigns says

      The power strip is accessible through the secret door. This gives quick access to all power except for the plug for the actual fireplace insert. You have to remove the insert to access that one.

      Reply

  13. Mike says

    I’m going with this fireplace insert. What are the measurements you used for height and width of the frame. I see the manufacturer gives a usable dimension range. You said yours fit snug, so I’d like to use the same dimensions.

    Reply

    • michealadianedesigns says

      Hi Mike, The manufacturer gives you the dimensions of the front of the fireplace but once you get it you will see that there is a metal box in the back. We measured the width and height of that and made our opening the same dimensions.

      Reply

  14. Lyndsee says

    I’ve researched how to do this a million times. Bar none, your tutorials is the best! So clear and he,foul. Thank you for taking the time to do such a good job!

    Reply

  15. Becky says

    When you say you used 5” shiplap, is that the size of the actual visible width? The shiplap I am looking at is 5 inches but the actual visible width is 4 1/2.

    Reply

    • Erik says

      This is such a great tutorial! I am having trouble understanding the secret door though. Mainly I don’t get the “base door” vs “backboard” vs shiplap part of the door. Could you clarify, is the base door just a couple 2x4s? Then you attached the shiplap to those? Is there plywood or anything that you used?

      Reply

  16. Julie says

    We just created our fireplace using your inspiration, thank you! It was so helpful!
    I love your plant decor, where did you find those?
    Thank you

    Reply

  17. Meghann Aberle says

    Thanks for such an awesome tutorial. I see your sound bar in the before images, as well as directly below your TV in the after images.. how did you do that? Is the sound bar on a stand, shelf, or also has a mount?

    Thanks! Great work!

    Reply

  18. Ryan says

    This tutorial is amazing and so well detailed! Really would like to do a similar design in our home. Just wondering if you think this would be doable over top of a floating laminate floor, or would flooring have to be removed first?

    Reply

    • michealadianedesigns says

      I’m glad you found our tutorial helpful! I would say that you can just place it right over your existing flooring. All of the anchors go directly into the wall.

      Reply

  20. Leesh says

    Hi there! I am wanting to do this but worried about the weight of the TV … assuming but want to confirm that you mounted the TV into the stud pieces about the fireplace insert?

    Reply

    • michealadianedesigns says

      Yes you will definitely want to mount into a stud and not just into the wall. We mounted our actual TV mount to the studs based on the directions they provided.

      Reply

  21. kelly jenckes says

    This turned out beautiful! I am duplicating this as we speak (or type!). Question: what are the dimensions on your mantel? Depth? Height?

    Thank you!

    Reply

    • michealadianedesigns says

      Hi Kelly, all of this information is in the post 🙂 You can find them under final measurements and the materials list for the mantel.

      Reply

  22. Michelle L Harrison says

    It appears the product listings for the construction screws (Home Depot) and secret door hinge (Amazon) are showing the products as no longer available.

    Reply

  23. Sara says

    Thank you SO much for sharing these details! I really want to do this but no one has been so specific with materials. I am still not convinced I can do this myself as I’ve never even used these tools but hopefully I can figure it out! Thanks again!

    Reply

    • Tosha says

      We followed the tutorial very closely, adjusting for our measurements. Our fireplace insert is 50 inches wide and we love the way it turned out! Thank you for such clear directions. It looks fabulous. Wish I could share a pic!

      Reply

  24. Catherine says

    If you planned on doing built ins would you have done anything different to the sizing? We are planning to do a brick one around the same size, and plan on using unfinished top kitchen cabinets for base of built ins on each side? Great tutorial I have been searching for months, any this is the best I’ve read, also love the Baird and battan tutorial!

    Reply

    • michealadianedesigns says

      Hi Catherine, I am so happy you found our tutorial helpful. Sizing is going to depend on your wall and how big your base cabinets are. I definitely would modify to fit your exact space.

      Reply

  25. Kevin V says

    Looks great! Just a quick question. When creating the frame for the fireplace to sit in, did you use the outside dimensions for the fireplace? We ordered a different one, but it gives us the outer and inner dimensions.

    Reply

  26. Erik says

    This is such a great tutorial! I am having trouble understanding the secret door though. Mainly I don’t get the “base door” vs “backboard” vs shiplap part of the door. Could you clarify, is the base door just a couple 2x4s? Then you attached the shiplap to those? Is there plywood or anything that you used?

    Reply

    • michealadianedesigns says

      Hi Erik! The base door can be any leftover wood you have. You just need to be able to cut to fit the opening and be able to attach all the shiplap pieces to it.

      Reply

  28. May says

    This post was just what I needed to start my own project, Thank you!
    I have limited space in our living room and was hoping to create some storage below the fireplace (small doors on hinges that open out and down instead of covering completely in shiplap) Do you think that would be feasible with this construction design and safe underneath the fireplace due to heat?

    Reply

    • michealadianedesigns says

      I definitely think that you could. The electric fireplace does not put out enough heat for it to be a concern. You also do not even have to use the heat function if you don’t want to.

      Reply

  29. Cindy says

    This is a wonderful tutorial! I’m planning to tackle this project soon for my living space! What size is your tv btw for you to have a 5’ width. My tv is 55” so I want to make sure it’s centered.

    Reply

  31. Kelsey Thomas says

    Love this! I was wondering if you had to move your intake vent for your heater? Looks like you may have. We also have a vent in the way and am wondering how you moved it? Thanks!

    Reply

  32. Jenny says

    This looks wonderful and your step by step is great! Thank you for sharing. **Also, what app/program did you use to draw your rendering of what you wanted it to look like before you started the project?

    Reply

  34. Jackie Wallace says

    Wow! This turned out so amazing! I would love to recreate this in my home here in Wayne, PA. I am having my hardwood floor refinished next week, and I am going to have to convince my husband this should be our next project. Thanks for sharing!

    Reply

  35. Sathek Krishnamurthy says

    Curious the reason for using veneer on the end caps? Couldn’t you just use that same wood planks as three long pieces?

    Reply

  36. Jennifer says

    I was wondering how you got the color of your mantle with the white wash? I have tried but can’t seem to get the technique down.

    Thanks for the clear instructions. Ours turned out great.

    Reply

    • michealadianedesigns says

      Hi Jennifer! I am so glad you found this post helpful. I do have a section on the mantle finishes and materials. I used these to get the color you see. Sorry, I don’t have any specific techniques other than that.

      Reply

  37. Kelli Cornett says

    Absolutely love how it turned out. We plan to do this soon! Your detailed instructions will be so helpful; thank you!
    Do you mind sharing where you got your curtains/rods? I just love everything about your space!

    Reply

  38. Chad says

    Thank you for these plans. Was thinking of tackling it this weekend. We have a very large wall in our living room. I was thinking of making it 10′ wide but I’m guessing that since the shiplap is 8′ long, that it would take 2 boards for every 1 in your directions, adding another roughly $200. If I go wider, anything else I should be aware of aside from resizing my holes and boards? Thanks!

    Reply

    • michealadianedesigns says

      I am happy you found the plans helpful! Going that big you will also need more support in the frame. Make sure you account for that in the amount of wood you buy.

      Reply

  39. Margo Adams says

    Hi Micheala! I love this and am planning on following your plans for this fireplace build out in the next week or so! I’m sorry if you answered this already but does the framing go all the way to the ceiling? My ceilings are 9’ and am wondering if I should purchase 10’ boards for the frame instead of 8’. Thanks so much!

    Reply

  40. Daniel says

    The inside corner trim and lattice trim you linked to in the article are 8ft long. Have you already discussed with anyone what you would do if you have 9ft ceilings? Would you add a separate and extra foot of trim or would you look elsewhere for 9ft+ long pieces?

    I’m not much of a caulker/painter, but I’m assuming that adding two pieces of trim for one corner might look bad if not executed more perfectly than I am capable.

    Any thoughts on best approach?

    Reply

    • michealadianedesigns says

      Hi Daniel, 8ft worked for us but if you have higher ceilings I would get a longer piece of trim. I know they sell trim that size by the foot.

      Reply

  41. Shelley says

    This turned out absolutely BEAUTIFUL! Can you please tell me what size fireplace insert you ordered?
    Thank you! 🙂
    Shelley

    Reply

    • michealadianedesigns says

      I ordered the 30″ one. I don’t believe they make that size anymore so I would go with the 33″

      Reply

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